The Loire Valley
The beautiful town of Montreuil-Bellay, where we have our farewell dinner on the bank of this canal.
Getting to know the Loire Valley is nothing short of resplendent. The sumptuous vistas, the food, the wine, the reserved but friendly and kind residents - it all leaves you knowing that you must return, that you must get to know it better, make it an old friend, make it a place you can wander in a familiar and agenda-less stupor, just soaking up the ambiance, letting yourself get seduced by its charms like a bit of a lovesick puppy.
When I think about my favorite thing to do in this region, the truest answer is: to simply walk around Angers or drive around in my car until I stumble upon a small town bakery or pharmacy or church to explore. But! Such things don’t make a retreat, and I aim to tell you about what makes our week there with our partners and guests so special - at least to me.
The Loire Valley is, bar none, my one of the most exemplary regions for wine in France. As a chef, I am very fortunate to drink and to be around incredible wines - but it doesn’t mean, necessarily that I know as much as I should. I’m a novice when it comes to discussing wine. I am learning, specifically through these trips, about the makers, the vineyards, the traditions and the processes. I have learned so much, specifically, from our beloved wine pal and expert Manon Lavaud from, truly one of the most informed and brilliant wine shops I’ve ever stepped into: La Tonelle wine shop in Saumur.
Manon’s selections from La Tonelle for our chateau rooftop wine tasting.
There is Richard Ruan’s remarkable Boulangerie des Carmes - where, while touring as a musician in France, Julie worked and studied baking for a time with Richard, her beloved mentor. Having access to a baker with Richard’s pedigree, not to mention his convivial presence and incredible teaching style, is certainly a rare and wonderful privilege that we are so proud to get to share with a our guests.
Richard’s Cannelé, which he infuses with a local liquor to make them uniquely his. If I can help it, these are my first bites upon arriving in Angers.
Then, naturally, there is the FOOD. What an abundant valley the Loire is! I’ve been around France quite a bit at this point and I can honestly say, nothing beats the produce of this region. Nothing. Funny thing is, we are always in the Loire Valley after August, where late season produce is ample and luxurious - incredible leeks, fennel, roots, dark leafy greens of all varietals abound. Grapes, apples and stone fruits are harvested when we are there, and we arrive to a bounty. I often wonder what it might be like to be there in the spring and summer when all things are fresh and a new. But I never wonder too long because I have so much to think about with what autumn affords me.
I’d never really tasted a proper grape until I tasted these. Talk about romance….
Then, of course, there is cooking. The ideas feel limitless when you are in such an abundant region and my little baker heart gets about five hundred little skipped beats in it as we walk around the market, changing the menu to suit what is available. I take all that I find and then loving prepare all of our meals for (and with!) our guests and use these market finds as inspiration for our baking workshops together. Stone fruit, cherries, apples, and spices seem to fall from the sky.
A pear and cherry frangipane tart - made with a strong assist by a few retreat guests.
There is so much more, really. But I just wanted to highlight a few things to say: you can join us in this magical place! Julie and I are hosting our final retreat together for 2024 this September. Toulouse is already sold out, but you can jump in here in this magical wonderland of the Loire. Check out all of the details HERE and, as always, never hesitate to reach out directly with any questions you have. We’re here to make this possible for you!
May your new year be full of travel and joy!
Bisous, Lisa
